Today marks the 175th day of our adventure in Italy (about 15 million seconds, if you are counting). This is important because 175 is the number of days we could legally lease the car in the manner in which we did. So today I returned the car to the Milan airport. It was a rainy day in this part of the world, but thankfully there were no delays on the autostrada and I arrived at the gate of the return center at 12:01 for my noon appointment. By 12:15 the shuttle had dropped me off at the Malpensa Airport train station and at 12:43 I was on my way into the city for a (very) little sight seeing. My first stop was lunch. There is a pizza place relatively close to the cathedral called Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo Lievito Madre al Duomo. It serves traditional Napoletan pies. I was heartened by the fact that many people in business suits were eating there (and not just tourists dressed like me). After pizza and beer, I headed to church to see my favorite statue. In the transept of the Duomo is a sculpture by Marco d'Agrate from 1562 called St Bartholomew Flayed. It is an at least life-sized depiction of Bartholomew carrying his own skin. In the Bible, Bartholomew is named as one of the 12 apostles and one of the witnesses of the ascension. Afterward, he is said to have preached the Gospel in India, then Armenia. After converting the king of Armenia, the king of Armenia's brother martyred him. There are three versions of the details of how Bartholomew was martyred: beheaded and dumped into the sea, crucified upside down, and flayed alive. Marco d'Agrate apparently preferred the latter. After snapping some photos in and around the cathedral I hopped a train home to Trento. I arrived home to discover food (and wine) waiting on the table. Catalin (Christine's graduate school advisor who happens to be visiting) had braised a wonderful batch of Ossobuco.
Yes, it is a picture of a bottle of beer. It is also evidence of the extent of Milan's fanciness. Here even the cave men wear suits and eat pizza with a fork...
Here is an annoying picture of my food. There is a plate under there somewhere.
front facade of the Milan Cathedral (Duomo di Milano). It took 600 years to complete the church
here is a dude hanging out on the facade. I will name him Bartholomew version 2
lady in a hoodie
dramatic version of "lady in a hoodie". You're welcome.
facade in profile
interior of this random church I found in Milan (which happens to be the 5th largest in the world)
There are nine impressively massive stained glass windows. Here's one.
This nice lady is guarding another.
St Bartholomew Flayed.
His entire skin (and face) is draped over his shoulder like a cloak.
The artist was careful to be as anatomically correct as possible.
He is the patron saint of tanners (not a joke).
According to Innocent Abroad, this statue apparently gave Mark Twain nightmares.
The statue is situated just to the left of the altar.
Christine finds this photo particularly creepy...
and this one more so.
an angel waiting in the wings
The silver face plate of Saint Carlo Borromeo, former archbishop of Milan, laying in his tomb in the crypts of the Duomo. He was a leading figure during the Counter-Reformation (a period started with the Council of Trent, which was held in Trento). Small world.
Artsy fartsy photo of cathedral details.
Another artsy fartsy photo, this time of column bases.
This is the view of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II from the front steps of the Duomo.
Not to get too deep, but I think it is a pretty decent metaphor, or maybe symbol, for Milan.
It is one of the world's oldest shopping malls.
The central door of the cathedral, replete with military security.
Apparently people like to touch this part of the door.
This persecutor of Christ has a very shiny left calf.
These paving stones had a puddle on them.
Catalin entertaining the girls.
Ossobuco!
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